SUN MOON LAKE (Part 3)

OF TEMPLES AND BANANAS

Traversing the northern edge of the lake, we came upon a fantastic sight - one massive stairway stretching from the lake to the top of a hill. This is the Steps of the Year Trail. The stairs are broken into sets with each set representing a different month and having a number of steps equal to that month's days. We met it roughly halfway, so we got this view:

Stretching down to the lake

Going up to the temple, after taking a small left turn near the top.

There are also small lantern-like ornaments attached along the railings. Each one represents prayers for a person on the temple's behalf (similar to the candles they have lit in temples) and they are placed next to the step that marks the person's birthday. Not only that, but they're organised into ages as well.

You can clearly see these lanterns are prayers for people who are quinquagenarians and sexagenarians.

The volume does alter in areas, but there are simply masses of these lanterns along the pathway.

The step for 2nd December, the date we were on the walk.

When you reach the top you'll encounter two wonderful things, but the temple can wait as you first take in the view. It's a wonderful present after a long climb beneath the tree canopy.

The second thing you'll notice is the temple itself. I am not religious, but I do appreciate the beauty and wonders of the world. Whilst I like to keep my thoughts planted in logic and reasoning, I admit I was taken aback by this place.

There is an idea of situational religion, where people feel drawn to religion in certain places. The old Catholic Church used this effectively. They made churches to be the grandest buildings in a city (save for maybe a palace) and had all their sermons in Latin, keeping an air of mystery locked with ritual. The Temple here does it differently. While there is no doubting the creativity and dedication in making the temple what it is (and I'll take a look at that in a bit), I cannot help but feel the place is what makes it great. The cool weather, the beautiful hilltop view, the lake stretching below, the greener-than-green trees surrounding the temple - they all speak of grandeur surpassing humanity. Nature makes this temple a marvel.

One of the pair of Stone Lions (Guardian Lions) that flanks the temple, giving it its mystical protection. Unlike a conventional pair (male resting his paw upon the world, female restraining a playful cub) this temple has two males.

Temples like this are often (if not always) built in various levels or tiers. This picture is taken from the first tier. In front are stairs ascending to the second tier and a room in which gods are housed. Behind me is a similar building with different gods in it.

At the top of the stairs, above the warring dragons and beneath the two rows of prayer lanterns is a flat wall. Upon its surface are intricate relief carvings done in stone.These must have taken ages, each one done on numerous blocks of stone. However rather than be held up as the great works of art that they are, they simply cover the walls all over the temple. None of them appear in the gods' houses. Then again, being stone, they would fare far better against the elements than cloth or wood.

Getting to the gods' houses, we find a lot more attention placed on decoration. It is here where we find the Asian influence in these temples. Just like with Hindu temples there is an emphasis on over decorating. Whether it is a dedication to the complexity of life or the gods, there are too many things to truly witness all of them. Carved wood and stone with many shades of paint shining gloriously, row upon row. That's simply the ceiling.

Guan Yu was one of the 5 great generals of the warlord Liu Bei. His life has become largely fictionalised over the course of time and he is now viewed as an epitome of loyalty and righteousness. He was deified after his death. This is the story of the weapon he carried with him, along with a representation.

Behind the final gods' house I came upon this fountain.

Multiple small dragon heads constantly pour water from their mouths. Accompanying them is a larger dragon head, spouting water out from the great carving above.

This feature is a wonderful illusion. Whilst the spouts keep the sound of running water (along with splashing) the five dragon heads on the right occasionally exhale a kind of mist, which then blows back past them to the viewer standing before the fountain (on the right). This gives them the feeling that they're standing beneath a waterfall with the hiss and mist of the crashing water blowing over them.

I apologise in advance, but I cannot get this picture to right itself. This is one of the  fountain jars which people use as a wishing well. The rim of the jar is a series of small containers. These containers are what westerners would call Golden Ingots and they are synonymous with increased wealth.

A corner at the back of the temple. The small stone fence indicated the temple's boundary where other tourists are wandering.

The roof offers some great views.

A picture of me overlooking Sun Moon Lake with all its boats scooting people between the three piers.

I promised you bananas in the sub heading, so here they are in all their glory and varying colours. The Nantou area to have its farming rooted in bananas and betel nuts.