09 August, 2015

BALI: Part 4

The next destination in the wedding party's journey was Ubud. It has always been a hot destination for tourists and has had a boost in tourism thanks to the success of the book and subsequent movie Eat, Pray, Love. This was clear from the sheer amount of construction work being done in and around the area. This also marked the final stop in our trip. While the wedding party had plans for another week or two, Ubud would be the last point of exploration for my girlfriend and me.

Ubud Accommodation

After the time I had spent wandering the delightful countryside of Sidemen and the relative calm of Candidasa, I was unprepared for the sheer number of tourists in Ubud. Granted, the town (city?) is much larger than anywhere I'd previously been in Bali (save the capital where we flew in) and it may have been down to our luck or arriving around supper time, but the streets were thronged with white faces. I'm curious to know what percentage of them would fit a Julia Roberts description (or at least would in their own minds).

On this occasion my girlfriend and I opted to stay separately from the group, partly so we'd have more freedom to make plans to do our own things, and partly because we'd be leaving before they did.

Accommodation is everywhere and there are many places that are hidden from view; places that look like this:

 
You have no idea what lies at the end of this passageway, but it could be the best place you stay in your entire visit. Who knows? 

 
This was where we spent our nights and leisure time. One again the single 'c' is pronounced 'ch'. Bucu means corner, as the building was built on the corner of the property. Pronouncing it buku would mean 'book'. 

 
Bucu View is built on a gentle slope and is a series of two story houses. Some are couple size while others cater to families. 

 
There are statues of gods in various places around the estate, partly to pay homage to the gods and partly to ask for their protection. 

 
Right at the bottom of the estate is this quaint feature. Three dragons continually pour water that joins the stream.


 
Ours was near the bottom of the estate.  The door at the foot of the stairs is the entrance and there's a bathroom off to side. 

 
At the top of the stairs is a single, large room complete with bed, mosquito net, table and chairs, TV (not necessary when you have Bali to explore), cupboards and a mini fridge hidden in the cabinet below the TV. Don't make the mistake I did on unplugging the fridge to charge your phone, or you'll also end up with water all over the floor.

On the night we arrived, our phone's batteries were dead and so we were unable to photograph the single greatest thing we saw at the guesthouse. I was moving bags into a corner when my girlfriend called me, saying she had seen a large lizard scuttle behind the picture frame behind the TV. So, I went over and started tapping the picture lightly. Then something came out.
It was a dark brown gecko, but of a size that I had never seen before. It's body was at least the length of my hand. Head and tail included, it could have been as long as my forearm. I knew we would be safe from mosquitos staying here, but sadly Sam (for that's what we called him) disappeared later that night and didn't return during our stay.

 
Breakfast at most guesthouses tends to offer this or omlettes or banana pancakes with coffee of tea. Though I tried Bali Kopi (Bali Coffee) everywhere I went, nothing compared to the rich flavour of the one I had in Sidemen. Perhaps it is the general degredation one gets the more one moves from countryside to city. Perhaps it is nothing more than a desire for capitalistic gain by passing off inferior quality as the advertised product.

 

Of course, there was also the obligatory swimming pool, much needed in Bali's heat. For swimming pools at guesthouses in Bali, towels are always left out on the chairs for guests to use. 

 
The other Taiwan guests were staying at Alam Terrace Cottages, which due to location shared a pathway and sign with two other guesthouses. While alongside each other, Alam Terrace Cottages was more to the back where the land takes a short but steep drop. Immediately behind reception there is a staircase that takes you down that drop to the guest houses. The advantage of this drop is it makes the place quieter and more secluded.

 
It seems some of the locals have a sense of humour or at least try to appeal to the tourists'.

The buildings are multi-storied with each floor being a different flat. 

 
There is, of course, a swimming pool and the view from our friends' room looks directly out onto it. 

 

 
The room they stayed in was spacious with high ceilings and decorated with (if I remember correctly) purchaseable art. Nothing to my taste, but then art is nothing if not personal taste.

The wedding couple weren't staying in a guesthouse. Instead they had tracked down an obscure and well hidden AirBnB in which to stay. How obscure, you ask? Our taxi driver who has lived his whole life in Ubud couldn't find it. He had to phone and ask for directions.

The place is called Pondok Wahyu and it can accommodate about 15 people at a time.
(https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/5204677)

 
So after our taxi driver navigated the instructions from our host, we made our way down a small road advertising another guesthouse, drove right up to said guesthouse and then took an almost hidden road next to it that was the driveway for Pondok Wahyu. We parked, walked past two bungalows and reached the main house.

 
The first local to catch my eye was this delightful fellow.

 
Followed by a sibling who also wanted to be petted.


Flanking the house one comes across a charming little pond and beyond it an frame with a roof and a bed to relax and read on.

 
That bed is adjacent to the swimming pool.

 
The swimming pool runs the length of the main building, the back half of which is a large undercover lounge and dining area. 


 

 

 
 The view from the dining area. The small thatched structure to the left is another area with a matress and pillows. It's used for relaxing and reading.

 
I took sometime to reacquaint myself with my lordly nature and survey the lands below me whilst sipping elogantly ...um, actually I'm not sure what I was drinking at that stage. It could have been whiskey or a gin & tonic.

 Our hosts (Dave & Leanne, the bridal couple) invited us all to join them for supper one night, followed by Kecak fire and trance dancing.
 
 
They had called in caterers to do the food, all traditional Balinese food. Plates were banana leaves. The food ranged from kebab-like sticks of meat to chicken that had turned pink due to the sauce and spices it was cooked in. There were fritter-like things and lots of fruit and rice.




I must also mention the room that Dave & Leanne stayed in. It was off to the side of the main building and could access the car park directly along a covered walkway.

 

 
It's a two-story affair. The glass windows on the top right are the master bedroom with the top left being their kitchen area. Below the stairs and around the left side of the building is another small room and the only part of the house that has AC.
You've probably noticed the loo at the foot of the stairs. The building is secluded, so releaving yourself in the open is perfectly acceptable here. Of course, for those a little more accustomed to ensured privacy, there is another loo and shower off the master bedroom on the other side of the building. 

 
The view from the outside loo is one of a valley, half blocked by trees.

 
Their kitchen/dining room is rustically charming.

 
This was also the first time I saw one of these plants open.

Kecak Fire and Trance Dance

This was the biggest insight I received into Balinese tradtion during my trip. It is a must see and takes place twice a week.
 
The show is a style of storytelling expressed through song and dance. It's best to read the story beforehand (they give you a leaflet explaining it) so you can appreciate the nuances in movement and music. Sadly all my pictures were taken at night, so few are even comprehendable. The performance takes places in a temple. 
 

 
This was one of the ushers. Behind him is a gateway through which the performers enter and exit. On the left side is a stand with cup holders. In those holders fire is placed and it forms the centre of the play. 

 
Once lit, it looks like this. When the show starts, a group of singers arrive through the gate. They are very much like a Greek Chorus from Ancient Greek plays. The enter at the beginning and they remain there for the duration of the play. What's interesting is that they sit in concentric circles around the fire, leaving the area immediately next to the fire for the actors to enter and perform in.
 
 
This picture I found online through a search engine. Sitting on the floor and at night meant I was unable to get a picture that properly shows the sitting arrangement.

Here are three pictures showing points in the play where the actors are moving about, sitting or dancing. The chorus is as engaged in the play, if not more so. I cannot describe this experience and give it justice. All I can say is if you are Bali, go see one of these performances and go early so you can grab a good seat.

 
 
 


At the end of the play, the chorus left and someone came in with coconut shells and made a huge fire.



After the fire wass burning, a man entered holding what appeared to be a toy horse frame. He then proceeded to dance around, stomping on the fire and kicking it around the stage. You can see that a low metal wall was set in place before his performance began. The heat of the fire could not be ignored.


I managed to get a photo with the fire dancer before the hordes charged in. You can see how black his feet are.
 
 
My favourite picture from that night - the burnt remains of coconut shells.

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